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10 Things Your Jeweler Will Never Tell You
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Platinum and white gold are two popular choices for engagement rings, but what sets them apart?
In this article, we’ll explore their unique qualities, durability, and maintenance requirements, so you can confidently choose the perfect metal for your special ring.
Gold
Did You Know?
One ounce of gold can be beaten into a sheet that is much thinner than paper.
One ounce of gold can be drawn into a thin wire 50 miles long.
All the gold that has ever been mined would fill up 3 1/2 Olympic swimming pools.
All the worldwide gold production in a single year would fit in a
20 by 30-foot room with a 8-foot ceiling.
Gold has been used in jewelry longer than any other metal. In its pure form, it resists corrosion and oxidation and lasts forever.
Pure gold is soft and rarely used in jewelry making. Gold is alloyed (mixed with other metals) to improve its strength and malleability. Yellow gold alloys commonly include zinc and/or cobalt, silver, and copper.
White gold is alloyed with other metals (zinc and/or palladium, nickel, manganese, and copper). Gold jewelry is made up of various alloys called karat gold. Fine (pure) gold is 24K. A gold alloy of 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloy is 18K. An alloy of 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy is 14K.
Jewelry is stamped with a quality marking to show the purity of the metal. While American manufacturers are required by law to use the K numbers (14K and 18K) in their quality stamping, foreign manufacturers often stamp jewelry with a 3-digit number that notes the gold content as parts per thousand. For example, a 750 stamp on an Italian-made ring signifies that it is 18K gold. A stamp that is 585 is 14K gold.
What you should know about Gold
Gold is more resistant to scratching than platinum.
White gold is not completely white. It is plated with rhodium to make it bright and shiny.
In time, the plating will begin to fade and it will need to be replated. This is a simple
process at a reputable jeweler. It’s relatively inexpensive (less than $50) and takes a few minutes.
It is estimated that 10-12% of the female population is allergic to nickel (which is often used in white gold jewelry). If you want white gold and you suspect you are allergic to it, you can ask if the mounting is made with nickel. Platinum and its alloys do not cause allergic reactions.
Gold prongs will wear over time. Diamond jewelry should be checked every 6 months at a reputable jeweler. They can professionally clean your ring at that time. Prongs should be re-tipped or replaced if recommended by the jeweler rather than take a chance of losing a diamond.
Platinum
Did you know…
Spanish conquistadors were the first Europeans to encounter platinum. They considered it a nuisance because it had a similar appearance to the silver they were seeking.
Platinum was first identified as a new metal in the 1700’s. Its most popular period was during the 1920’s and 1930s. Its popularity was short-lived, however, when the United States government banned its use in jewelry during World War 2 when it was deemed a strategic metal. Lately, platinum jewelry has experienced a renaissance.
Platinum jewelry is marked “Platinum” because it contains at least 95% platinum. Platinum jewelry that is 85% to 95% platinum is marked “950 Plat” or “950 Pt.” and “850 Plat” or “850 Pt.”
Platinum is alloyed with other rare metals called platinum group metals (iridium, ruthenium, rhodium, and osmium).
What you should know about Platinum
Platinum does not require rhodium plating like white gold. Its natural grayish-white color and non-tarnishing quality make it ideal for setting diamonds in engagement rings.
Platinum will scratch and in time develop a satin-like finish which many consider desirable.
Platinum requires minimal maintenance.
Platinum and its alloys do not cause allergic reactions.
Platinum is known for its secure, diamond-holding power and durability.
